Mosquito Magnet Tune-up
Introduction
Cleaning Procedure
Update: This article was originally written for the Mosquito Magnet Patriot MM4100, but it also works for the more recent Patriot Plus MM4200. I added image sliders below to highlight the differences.
After about one year of use, my Mosquito Magnet was
showing a fast-blinking red light indicating a fault.
The lower-end Mosquito Magnet models can only show a fast-blinking red light instead of an error code,
and it usually indicates a failure to ignite.
I tried using a Quick Clear cleaning cartridge as well as swapping propane tanks
to make sure it wasn't the propane. When both of those troubleshooting attempts failed,
I decided to service it myself.
The fact of the matter is that these machines require periodic maintenance
in order to ignite properly.
Over time, the nozzle
that delivers propane to the combustion chamber becomes clogged as does the combustion chamber
itself.
This article shows you how to clean the unit in order to solve these two common ignition
failure modes (the other common
ignition failure mode is caused by either a dirty thermistor or igniter).
Multiple components of the Mosquito Magnet can fail:
- thermistor can get dirty
- igniter can get dirty or break
- valve solenoid can stick
- AC adapter can die
- igniter O-ring can wear out
There are three excellent YouTube videos showing a teardown of the various models, their
anatomy, and how to troubleshoot individual components.
These videos are useful if cleaning the unit does not fix your problem:
- Patriot
- Independence
- Liberty
The above videos (especially the Patriot one) show you how to diagnose a faulty component.
It is difficult to find internal spare parts for these machines, and maintenance techniques are not readily
accessible. I find cleaning the unit once per year at the beginning of each season works best
as preventative maintenance.
DANGER! Use this procedure at your own risk. You are dealing with propane,
flammable solvents, and electricity. I am not a certified technician.
You accept all responsibility for your actions.
Note: you can click on any enlarged image below to dismiss it.
- Remove the clamp screws from the electrical inlet and propane hose, depending on your model. In a later step, you will need to dislodge the power switch and the rubber grommet around the propane hose on newer models.
- Remove the four nested screws on the underside of the unit, then remove the green cowling.
- Remove the three screws that secure the black base to the cowling, then separate the guts of the machine
from the cowling.
- Remove the set screw (red circle), and extract the nozzle assembly from the
combustion chamber. It may be difficult to remove the very first
time you do it. You may need to loosen the two adjoining screws
(orange circles) to get it out.
The nozzle is circled in red below.
- Remove the nozzle.
The nozzle has a mesh filter attached to it.
On older models, the mesh filter is threaded into the nozzle, and you can
separate the filter from the nozzle
using an adjustable wrench on the hex head (indicated by the red arrow in the picture below) to clean it more thoroughly.
Newer models have a more delicate assembly lacking a hex head, and you can simply submerge the entire assembly into solvent without separating it.
The picture below shows the dirty mesh filter discolored from contaminants in the propane.
- Soak the nozzle in solvent for a number of hours to thoroughly
clean it. It is not sufficient to quickly spray solvent
into the nozzle and think you are done. I soaked mine in carburetor
cleaner for 6 hours in the cut-out bottom of a soda can. You can clean the mesh carefully using a soft toothbrush.
- Separate and clean the combustion chamber as shown in the
YouTube
video. You will need to carefully remove the electrical components to do this;
don't bend or break them! The YouTube video shows you how
to remove the electronics.
- Newer models require a Torx 25 screwdriver for the combustion chamber.
- I use a painter's putty knife (not a screwdriver) to separate the blocks.
- You can clean the chamber using a small wire brush by hand if you don't want to use a drill with a wheel brush attachment.
- There is no need to remove the fan or loosen its screws.
- There is a plastic screw on the thermistor whose head has a habit of breaking off easily.
I replaced mine with a spare machine screw I had on hand (#8-32 x 1/2").
Perhaps substituting a metallic screw for a plastic one is not a great idea, but it worked for me.
Most decent electrical wire stripping tools have a slot cutter for this size of screw, so you can cut a longer one down to size as needed.
- Optionally, you can test the nozzle before reassembly.
If you choose to do this, make sure you are outside when you test
it!
The YouTube
video shows you how to do it. The video illustrates what happens
when you don't clean the nozzle thoroughly. Note the Patriot will
not emit a ticking sound like Independence model does. You will
instead hear the valve solenoid click after about 2.5 minutes, and then the fan speed will slow
down after the igniter activates.
It is hard to see in the picture, but there is a continuous blue
flame coming from the nozzle. This indicates that the nozzle has been
sufficiently cleaned, and the Mosquito Magnet is now ready for duty.
Important note: when doing a functional test of individual components,
it is OK to have the unit opened up with the innards exposed.
But when performing a system test for the red light to go solid,
you should reassemble the machine to its black base with the cowling enclosing it.
There needs to be proper temperature and air flow for the system test to pass,
and that may not happen with the guts lying exposed on a table.
- Reassemble the unit in reverse order. I find it easiest to align the rear screw (red circle) first
so that the Quick Clear valve (red box) is seated against the grey cowling with no gap.
Dry fit the green cowling to ensure everything fits properly.
- On older models, I affix aluminum thermal tape (red arrows)
at these two locations. The unit came from the factory with tape here, and
I damaged the tape when I took the unit apart. I imagine the tape
improves the suction from the fan.
-
You should see a slow blinking red light transition to a solid red light
after the 15 minute warm-up cycle. I find that sometimes the very first ignition attempt after servicing is unsuccessful, but a subsequent attempt works. Good luck!
